Rediscovering The Wonderful Whitsundays 19th - 27th July 2018

Cid Harbour

Whitsunday Peak

 

The Climb

We are soooo... lucky! The weather has been absolutely wonderful since we left Keppel Bay Marina. On our other visits here we found that the weather can be windy, just a bit too much for comfort a lot of the time, and cloudy and cool. This time it has been beautiful. Warm, sunny, mostly cloudless, clear and perfect.

The Lake Macquarie people left Burning Point on Shaw Island early in the morning. We stayed on to walk the long beach and wander over the exposed sand banks as the tide receded. We had thought we would follow them to Whitehaven Beach later in the afternoon. However Sparks and Wildfires (Parks and Wildlife Dept.) decided this was the perfect time to set fire to Haselwood Island. Whitehaven Beach is west of Haselwood Island and as we headed towards it we saw clouds of thick smoke blanketing the whole area. We didn't fancy being smoked out again. (Lizard Island two years ago was enough of that!!) Cid Harbour looked like a good option and we also had the advantage of a strenuous walk 2.5km up to Whitsunday Peak. We love this walk.

The View

We spent two nights in Cid. We set off early to walk to the summit of Whitsunday Peak on a cool, smokey morning. Within a short distance of the top you can get mobile coverage and after nearly a week we phoned or messaged a few family and friends. The view from the huge slabs of granite rock, south to Hamilton Island were superb. The natural air conditioning up there cooled my overheated body and we both sat there appreciating the wonderful views despite the smokey atmosphere.




The Office



Airlie Beach

Supplies were getting low so we pulled the anchor and motored to Airlie Beach for stocking up and to do the laundry. No sooner had we anchored north of the Whitsunday Sailing Club than a Marine Safety boat circled us. It was quite intimidating really. No greetings or friendliness. Just, "Are you anchored?" in a less than friendly voice. I felt like saying, "No. we're flying to the moon." I didn't of course, but for goodness sake what did it look like? Anyway they wanted us to put a black ball in the rigging as International and Queensland Rules require. No-one has ever done this since we have been travelling. It is in the rules, but surely a pleasant request to do so would have been a better approach. We have since purchased a black ball and put it in the rigging to show our boat is anchored, but no-one else has taken the slightest bit of notice. I wonder how many fines have been issued.

Abell Point Anchorage

After this friendly welcome to Airlie Beach we stocked up. did the laundry and had a take-a-way coffee at MacDonalds. (The Self Appointed Café Appreciation Society will take on all venues!!!) The coffee was OK and the lovely young lady serving behind the counter gave us lots of change to shove in the washing machines and drier at the laundry.

Socialising is always a prominent activity in our day. Greg and Leisha had told us to look out for friends of theirs who were here, with their two little kids, on a catamaran called Inter Alia. We contacted Emma and Ian and met Ian at the dinghy dock in the Abell Point Marina to go out to their boat for morning tea. We spent an interesting morning with them discussing where we had been and other boat stories and lapsing into surrogate grandparent mode as Abbey showed me through her treasure box. I hope Greg and Leisha can get together and sail with them in the future. They would have a lot of fun.

On Sunday evening 'Shaggers' have a weekly Get-Together at the Hogs Breath Café for snacks and drinks and this turned out to be an enjoyable evening. The next morning Ric and Val met us for coffee, Then Jane and Greg turned up and joined in for a chat. After all this catching up we thought that as the weather forecast was for light winds for a few days, it was the perfect time for a trip around Whitsunday Island to Whitehaven Beach and the bays on the northeast side of the island.

Three Days Around Hook Island

This cheeky fellow beaked his way up the rigging. Luckily it is stainless steel.



Nara Inlet, on Hook Island, was our first port of call and we spent the night there amongst the steep mountains and quiet calm of this anchorage. In the morning the ebb tide helped us on our way

 through Hook Passage, between Hook Island and Whitsunday Island. The tidal streams run fast here and it is best to pick the right state of tide to travel through the narrow passes between the islands. Everyone was out on the water, from huge ferries racing out to their destinations to tiny run-a-bouts fishing in the sheltered bays.




Looks like the bulldozers have been here. Whitehaven Beach

Our destination was Whitehaven Beach. The fires on Haselwood had by now burnt out and the air was clear. Many boats were already here and we chose a spot further along the beach as a quiet night was predicted. Whitehaven was battered by Cyclone Debbie that roared through here last year. Huge piles of trees have been ripped out and pushed up along the high tide line along the beach, like a bulldozer has been hard at work. Dead remnants of other trees clothe the hillsides their silver grey branches reaching skywards. However, nature has begun her recovery and waist high shrubs are regrowing amongst the dead tree trunks. The beautiful white beach is still there, along with the shimmering blue water and tourists. It is still the most beautiful place to visit.

Still Beautiful 

From Whitehaven Beach we motored along the northern shores of Whitsunday and Hook Islands until we came to Maureen Cove. We took up a courtesy mooring here at 3.30pm so were able to keep it for the night. There is a two hour limit on all courtesy moorings here during the day, but you are allowed to stay the night if you pick up after 3pm. We went ashore to walk along the coral shingle beach and then pottered around in the dinghy for an hour taking a close look at the interesting rocks along the shoreline.  Whales passed close by in the evening and we heard and watched them make their way slowly across the bay near us. In the night we heard them blowing and breathing close by as we lay in bed. After three gorgeous days around Whitsunday and Hook Islands we made our way back to Airlie Beach for a planned BBQ lunch, at the water front park south of Abell Point Marina, with the Lake Macquarie crowd.

What a hectic life we lead!!!! After all this' catching up' we spent a day doing the chores, i.e., the inevitable laundry and stocking up the larder for a five day trip to Magnetic Island and our favourite Horseshoe Bay.

An amazing rock formation on Hook Island near Luncheon Bay.
The Woodpile

Keppel Bay Marina to the Whitsunday Islands 12th - 18th July 2018

A Quick Trip Up The Coast

Navigating

After spending five days relaxing and hiding from the non-existent strong winds, we set off again for more northern climes. The first day we motor sailed 47nm to Pearl Bay where we rocked and rolled for part of the night due to the tidal influence within the bay. Luckily when the tide changed the rolling moderated, the contents of the cupboards settled down and we were able to get a good sleep. Friday morning saw us up at 4am and we departed Pearl Bay at 4.45am bound for Middle Percy Island. This was one of the better sails we have had and we arrived at 3pm, after 56nm.We were just in time for a quick trip ashore to the A-Frame to look at the names of boats and crews who have visited here before us. This lovely island has a mediocre anchorage and it proved to be another rolly, tide affected night for us. Saturday was another ideal sailing day and we left Middle Percy at 6am and sailed all day in beautiful conditions and arrived at Scawfell Island just before sunset, after completing 62nm.

Wing on Wing in Light Conditions

The Shoalwater Bay/Broad/Sound area has the largest tidal range on the east coast of up to 9m. This produces strong tidal streams and care must be taken especially with spring tides and wind against tide situations. Luckily we had light winds as we made our way north. There is plenty to see in this area as it is  littered with  islands as far as you can see. We saw whales close by, leaping and showing their tails. The ships anchored off Hay Point and those entering and departing the port kept us on our toes as we navigated through the anchorage area and across the main channel north and south, and out through the Barrier Reef. I kept a close watch on the plotter and it became obvious that one ship was going to come very close to us. Peter rolled in the jib and slowed us down a bit and it steamed across our path. It was huge! I have never seen such an enormous ship. It had nine holds and was fully loaded. What an impressive sight as we slid quietly and safely behind it.

Young Endeavour sails past St Bees and Keswick Islands

Having reached Scawfell Island we slowed down to take in the beauty of the islands to the south of the Whitsundays. We decided to motor sail to Brampton Island for a night and as we left Refuge Bay on Scawfell, 'Young Endeavour' came slowly sailing up from the south, so we detoured  a bit for a closer look. She looked wonderful set against the backdrop of Keswick and St Bees islands. Brampton Island Resort remains derelict, with caretakers living there to keep an eye on things. After a quiet night we set off for Goldsmith Island

Brampton Island. Smith group in the background.

Goldsmith Island

Beautiful Goldsmith Island

This island is part of the Smith Island Group. There is many Smiths - Tinsmith, Silversmith, Ladysmith, Blacksmith, Anchorsmith. There is Bellows Islet, Ingot Islet, Hammer Island and Farrier Island. Someone really let their head go in naming this group of islands. However, Goldsmith is very beautiful and we took advantage of the perfect weather to anchor in Roylen Bay for the night. We spent the day exploring the whole northern coast line, walking beaches that had no other footsteps on them and finding a couple of lovely shells. Minnie Hall Bay is not such a good anchorage as you need to anchor well out due to shoaling ground and bommies scattered throughout the bay, but it is great to explore in the dinghy. There is a mangrove lined nook in the eastern corner, which is so pretty, with the background of steep hills that are covered in places with majestic pine trees.

Farrier Island

Since departing Keppel Bay Marina we found ourselves sailing with numerous other boats. Some we have travelled with on and off since the Clarence River in NSW and some since Brisbane. There is always at least eight to ten boats anchored with us every night. At Thomas Island, only 9nm north of Goldsmith we stopped for lunch and anchored amongst five 'cats', on the north side of this rugged, beautiful little island. We decided to move on and anchor for the night at Burning Point, on Shaw Island, as we had explored Thomas Island before on two previous visits.

Yakkidy Yak Blah Blah Blah!!!

Amongst Friends

We rounded Burning Point and were surprised to see about 15 boats already anchored there. No sooner had we set our anchor than a dinghy came racing over. It was Leonie from Comfortably Numb and Ian from Chandon. We had now caught up with some of the Lake Macquarie contingent. Shenanigans was there, our neighbour at the Toronto Yacht Club moorings. They had been joined by a couple of Tasmanian boats and travelled with them for some time. A sing-a-long had been organised on Shenanigans in the evening and we were invited along. It was hilarious. Ian and Leonie played their ukuleles, and the rest of us sang along. Waltzing Matilda, Click Go The Shears, Auld Lang Syne,  Still Call Australia Home (made Jane tear up!) and too many other songs to list, kept us all entertained for the evening. It was a memorable night on the water.

We are now at the Whitsundays proper and intend to explore here for a couple weeks before heading north to Townsville for several weeks then beginning the long journey south back to Brisbane.

Best Found So Far

Sunrise At Middle Percy

Great Keppel Island to Keppel Bay Marina 2nd July - 10th July 2018

Great Keppel Island

Great Keppel Island

After leaving Kingfisher Bay in the Great Sandy Strait we spent three long days sailing to enable us to travel north quickly in near perfect sailing conditions. The first night we anchored in the entrance to the Burnette River so we could leave at the crack of dawn for Pancake Creek. Again we anchored in the entrance along with another four boats. Many more were anchored further in behind the sand bar. It looked like a large town down there after sunset when the anchor lights glittered in the darkness. This time we rolled out of bed at 4am for a quick coffee and then left the creek at 4.45am bound for Great Keppel Island. We had to motor for the first 2 hours and then we had a wonderful sail north through the anchored ships waiting for coal loading at Gladstone. There were 13 altogether. We arrived at Leekes Beach on the north side of Keppel Island at dusk and anchored there along with 40 other boats.

Plenty of fellow travellers

Amazing! As we were approaching from the south I could see 5 AIS triangles on our chart plotter so we knew there were at least 5 in there....but 40!! We anchored on the western side of the point and settled in for a secure night. 30kn winds had been predicted for a short spell during the night so we made sure that the anchor was well set and we were far enough away from other boats not to cause any hassles. Well after dark a big cat came in and hovered just behind us for a while. We were willing him to go away......but no!!! next minute he has passed us by some 15m or so and anchored directly in front of us leaving little room to spare. Now this may be OK in a crowded anchorage but here there was a whole bay to choose a spot in. He also left red lights shining all night from his stern. There is always some one who does not know the rules of the sea. We wondered if he knew much about anchoring and after the predicted blow hit we kept checking to make sure he did not drag down on us. What a Plonker!!

Too close!! There's a whole bay out there!

We walked along the beautiful beaches and ended up at the Hideaway Bar for lunch. I must say that this was by far the worst fish and chips I have ever had. No recommendation from us for them. I suggest anyone reading this who goes to Great Keppel Island that you try the café further along the beach as they look like they are sprucing the place up. Certainly they will  make a killing if they serve decent food.

After two nights at Leekes Beach we decided to move to Fisherman's Bay to avoid the rolly swell that was entering the bay from the northerly breeze. It was much better there and many of the other boats ended up there too. On Saturday morning a thick fog descended on the bay and we could barely see the next boat. It lasted most of the morning, which was a bit unusual. After lunch we made our way to Keppel Bay to the marina where we planned to stock up, do the laundry, clean up etc before departing for the isolated stretch of coast between Yeppoon and Mackay.

Walk to Long Bay

A Few Days At Keppel Bay Marina

The Turtle

Turtle lunch. The white bits are reflections. The water was clean.

Apparently several turtles live in this marina. They are beautiful and carry on with their business, which is eating the weed off the marina pontoons, without taking any notice of the 'oohs' and 'ahhs' of the humans above. We have seen them on several occasions and locals tell us they have been there for ages. It amazes me how wildlife coexists closely with humans when given the chance and left alone.

The SACAS (Self Appointed Café Appreciation Society)

Peter and I are the founding members of the above society. We feel we are well qualified for this task as we have now sampled hundreds of different venues. All cafes begin with the full 10 points and as we partake of our morning tea we subtract points for unforgivable misdemeanours such as not wiping the table between customers, taste of the coffee and spilling the coffee, coffee too cool, dry cake and not providing REAL cream. An extra point is given for the venue ie, garden looked after, view etc. The Waterline Café at the Keppel Bay Marina is a beauty. On arrival we decided to try the Lamb  Burger and the Barra Burger. They were amazing. Best we have had for ages. Since then we have had coffee and cake there each morning and have not been disappointed. This café has been awarded 9.8 and only missed out on the full marks because it provides that awful pretend cream from a pressure pack. If anyone is coming this way we recommend this place for a meal or coffee break.

On Monday morning we noticed that the 'Cheeky Monkey's' van was pulled up near the garden part of the grounds. They set up large foam blocks, slides, tunnels etc for kids to play with while the parents sat around the periphery enjoying coffee/breakfast/lunch with family and friends. What a great idea. The kids were having a ball playing with the others and the parents enjoyed their break relatively pain free. The rest of the customers could still enjoy their meals on the veranda without bored kids driving them mad. Hooray for whoever came up with that idea.

Emu Park

ANZAC Memorial Emu Park

Yesterday we took the bus south about 21kms to Emu Park, a small community on the coast. We spent a couple of hours there wandering around. It is an attractive coastal village. There are plenty of those, but this one has an exceptional ANZAC Memorial Walk along the coast. It is well worth a look.

A work of art letterbox at the art gallery Emu Park

The Forecast

We have spent 4 nights here and the weather forecast for the next few days at least, looks good for sailing further north. The next part of our trip is through the isolated Shoalwater Bay Military Training Area which includes the anchorages at Port Clinton (no port just bush forever) Pearl Bay and Island Head Creek. After rounding Cape Townsend there is the numerous islands off Mackay and the biggest tides on the east coast. We hope the weather holds and we are able to enjoy this part of the coast. It seems that there will be quite a few other boats to accompany us on our travels. We have stocked up the larder, fuelled and watered and are ready to depart tomorrow.

A peaceful morning at the Keppel Bay Marina