Saturday 31 August 2019

A Quick Voyage North, Keppel Bay to Magnetic Island 17th - 31st August

Keppel Bay to Airlie Beach

Exiting the Keppel Bay Marina was somewhat problematic as spring tides were in place at the time and that meant that we would be kicking up the dust if we left too early, so to make sure we waited until the tide was right we decided to have breakfast at the marina restaurant. That was a great idea as the breakfast was excellent and set us up for a mid morning start for a motor sailing trip to Pearl Bay. The weather forecast was for little wind over the next three days and we ended up motor sailing most of the way to Scawfell Island in the southern end of the Whitsunday Islands. Here we anchored up for two nights as a strong southerly blustered through and made the idea of tackling the wind and seas very unappealing. We didn't even go ashore at Scawfell as the blustery, bullety, wind blown sea would have had us wet through by the time we made the beach.

Pearl Bay



Pearl Bay
 
Pearl Bay was gorgeous. We arrived from Keppel Bay Marina at about 3pm and the anchorage was absolutely flat. Usually, at this anchorage, there has been a rolly swell constantly marching across the bay catching us side on and sending the contents of the cupboards rattling their way through the night. Not this time. It was paradise. The jewel colours of the ocean, deep greens of the steep hillsides and the rosy glow of the setting sun had us in awe as we sat out in the cockpit toasting our luck at seeing this place in such magnificent weather.

Sunrise, Pearl Bay


The Best Whale Experience Ever

Sunday saw us out on the water at 4am for a long motor sail to Middle Percy Island. There was nearly all motor and very little sail. A quick glance of the fuel gauge a testament to the fact that there was no wind to be had. As we motored past Cape Townsend the Northumberland Islands began to present themselves across the ocean in a glassy, azure sea. The islands are everywhere and some of them are decent anchorages in this weather. We decided that we'd try for Middle Percy as that is halfway to Scawfell Island where we planned to sit out a blow forecast for two days time.




We were just driving along, adjacent to Hexham and Shields Islands, when Peter interrupted my novel with the news that there was a whale up in front. We could see it clapping its huge flippers from the distance and it kept this up, lying on its back and clapping its flippers, for 15 minutes or so until we came quite close. I couldn't believe how huge those flippers were. As we watched, from a safe distance, we realised that it was a mother and baby and she was probably feeding it. We could see a tiny tail slapping the water next to her. It was a very moving experience seeing this huge creature in the water nursing her little baby as we motored slowly past. She kept up this behaviour for as long as we could see her and until she disappeared in the distance behind us.


Look at that teeny, tiny, tail!! Wow!!


Another interesting feature of our trip that day was the rafts of algae collecting on the surface of the ocean. Some people say it is coral spawn, but Peter's mate, 'Clarkeii', told him it was algae and that it collects in great swathes on the ocean when there is no wind to disperse it. I go with 'Clarkeii' as he is a biologist.  Anyway, whatever it is, it made colourful, interesting patterns as we motored through it.


Colourful algae rafts on a glassy sea

One thing we have noticed this year on our trip up the coast is that the Queensland Government has put courtesy moorings in some of the popular anchorages along the coast. Pancake outer creek has a couple now (Don't know about the inner creek as we didn't go in!) and there are four at Scawfell Island, two in each bay.

South Molle Island to Magnetic Island

Having spent two nights cowering from the wind at Scawfell we decided to use the strong tidal streams in this area to get as far as South Molle Island in one day. There are many islands that we could have stopped at on the way if we ran out of daylight. We also had a great day of sailing, with the tide, especially when we got to Whitsunday Passage where the tide roars through between Long Island and the mainland on the west side and Dent and Whitsunday Islands to the east. We made South Molle just on dark and noticed that the old jetty has been demolished, and no longer exists, since it was devastated by Cyclone Debbie.

Two nights at Airlie Beach had us stocked up with fresh food and we were ready to make the final push to Magnetic Island. We do this stretch in three days. First night Gloucester Passage, second night Cape Upstart and with an early (4am) start we manage to anchor in Horseshoe Bay well before dark on the third day.



Coffee at one of our favourite venues. Tamarind Tea House, Arcadia Magnetic Island

So here we are in one of our very favourite anchorages, Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island. We are having a week here and then a week in the Breakwater Marina in Townsville where we can catch up with Peter's family before I go home to Albany. We will leave Olivia in the Breakwater this summer for the off season. Before that though Mike and Yvonne are coming for a visit, from Geraldton, and Peter is going to do some work on the boat before he comes home later in October.


$10 jugs at the Horseshoe Bay Pub. Incentive for the yachties to come ashore for evening sundowners and dinner.

Friday 16 August 2019

Fraser Island to Kepple Bay Marina, Yeppoon 10th - 16th August 2019

Fun on Fraser Island 

Peter bathes the leg in Lake McKenzie, inland fresh water lake.


The northerly wind persists and we are still hunkered down in the Susan River at River Heads. The wind is not really that bad' but still no fun sailing into it, something like banging your head against the brick wall. We have never seen anything of Fraser Island apart from several short walks along the beaches and into the forest nearby, so we decided to take a day tour with Fraser Explorer. Large four wheel drive buses take you on a tour of some of the scenic spots on the island. Our bus had 40 or so passengers. The cost of this day trip was $239 each. For this sum we had a trip to Fraser island from River Heads on the ferry, a full-day guided 4WD tour, buffet lunch at Eurong Beach Resort on the east coast and national park fees, and it was a long day - 8am until 6pm. The 'iconic' sights we saw were Lake McKenzie, Central Station (rainforest walk), Wanggoolba Creek, Eli Creek, The Pinnacles
Coloured Sands, 75 Mile Beach and the Maheno Shipwreck.


Maheno Shipwreck, 75 Mile Beach

It was a packed day and we can recommend it to anyone who is interested. The buses take the rough, sandy tracks in style. Luckily the seats are well sprung and the constant pitching and lurching along the forest tracks is achieved with comfort. I could not believe the size of the forest trees, especially since they were growing in sand. There must have been at least six of these buses touring that day so plenty of people about.


Our Bus

Eurong Beach Resort catered for lunch for all these people. Our bus driver said they were expecting 300 people for lunch and we enjoyed our meal and went back for seconds. After lunch we drove along the 75 Mile Beach for about 25kms. (not sure about that but that's what I thought!) The one thing I would have like to seen was a dingo. However I guess these things cannot be ordered. Peter had his sore leg so we didn't do much walking, but there wasn't time anyway. Fraser Island is an interesting and unusual place with its fresh water lakes, glorious beaches and beautiful forests.


Central Station rainforest. This is a stream. It is so clear you can't see the water.


Off to Keppel Bay

The northerlies have petered out and we left for the Burnett River the next day. Calm, sunny weather greeted us in the morning and we set off early in expectation of it being a long day. It was. About 10nm from the Burnett the wind turned north again, not strong, but enough to cause a sloppy sea and turn things rather uncomfortable. It also slowed us down so that we arrived in the dark, something I hate doing. With more light northerlies predicted for Monday we decided to stay put and explore the small town of Burnett River. It is a really lovely spot, not so much for scenery, but the people in the little town and shops were so friendly. The caravan park looks like a good one for those caravaners looking for a place to spend a day or two.


Old lighthouse at Burnett Heads

Tuesday saw us motoring most of the way to Pancake Creek along with about six other boats. We left early and arrived there before dark and anchored in the outer creek with seven others. We have not seen many whales yet. They must be up north by now. We decided to make a break for Great Keppel Island as the wind forecast was good - 10-15kts and later up to 20kts SE. We sailed all day. Keppel Island is one of our favourite anchorages. However as we motored across the northern face of the island we noticed that the swell was rolling alarmingly around the island. The twenty or so boats anchored in the northern bay were all rolling about in the constant swells, not dangerous but uncomfortable and noisy as contents of cupboards are flung about. We had just anchored when the wind piped up with the arrival of squalls. Luckily this was relatively short lived and things settled back to the rolly swells that continued catching Olivia side on for the rest of the night.


Relaxing after a day motor sail to Pancake Creek

We both slept amazingly well, but decided to sail over to the Keppel Bay Marina near Yeppoon so that we could fill up with water and fuel and take a trip to the shops for some stores. The laundry is done, hair washed with no thoughts of saving the water and Olivia has been cleaned, bow to stern.
Tomorrow we are heading north to Pearl Bay or Island Head Creek, then on to the Percy Islands or another nearby island and then we will be in the southern end of the Whitsunday Islands.


More Lake McKenzie, Fraser Island


Wednesday 7 August 2019

Manly, Brisbane - River Heads, Hervey Bay 2nd to 8th August 2019

Bad Luck at Manly

We were ready for an early start north to Mooloolaba, hopefully some sailing in light southerly winds and fair weather. It was all shaping up perfectly until Peter pulled/snapped a tendon in his left calf jumping a puddle. Obviously 66 year olds should not jump puddles!! He arrived back at Olivia hobbling and as grey as the colour of the marina deck he was crawling on. After some discussion we thought we had better stay for another night and he should visit the doctor a short stroll up the street. Diagnosis - a snapped Monkey Tendon, painful and likely to take some time to heal. Anti inflammatories have taken some of the pain away, but he has to rest it up as much as possible and we are going short distances each day at present.


One bruised foot. I thought it was the calf!! From knee down is a lovely colour!!



Mooloolaba

Mooloolaba Anchorage

After fuelling up we left Manly and motor sailed, mostly motored, our way in delightful weather up to Mooloolaba arriving at the entrance to the Mooloolah River at dead low tide. This was not normal low tide, but one short of the lowest astronomical tide, which was the day before. (Cautious, silly me did wonder if it was a good idea to enter the river just yet??!!) With 20 mins to low tide, 0.10m, we slowly motored up the river. Just around the first corner the tell tale shudder of keel scraping the bottom could be felt, then more serious bumps and finally we were pulled up, stuck fast to the  bottom.

How embarrassing! Everyone who could went past. A cruise ship was in and there was a constant flow of passenger ship ferries passing by. Luckily we were slightly to one side of the channel. The Coast Guard seemed to be executing some exercise near us at one stage and numerous private boats slid past offering advice on the best place to avoid our situation. Thanks guys, but we already know we are in the wrong spot. Even the paragliders cruised overhead for a viewing. An hour later Olivia began to relinquish her grip on the bottom and we motored off and outside to view the cruise ship for a couple of hours and then successfully re-entered the river and anchored in our usual spot up river amongst all the other visitors. We stayed an extra day here to change the engine oil and give Peter's leg a break.

Double Island Point and the Wide Bay Bar

Wide Bay, Double Island Point

Again we motored all day and arrived at Double Island Point at about 4pm. We decided to stay there as it was not a good time to take on the Wide Bay Bar as the ebb tide was in full swing. Three other yachts were anchored in the bay and we anchored nearby as Lucas advises. He is right. It is the most uncomfortable anchorage as the swell surges into the bay even though we had had several days of calm weather and little wind. We rocked and rolled all night and a couple of times came close to being pitched out of bed. Bring on the morning! When it arrived we had a beautiful view of the sand cliffs that lined the long sandy beach ashore. As soon as daylight arrived 4 wheel drive tour buses began to make their appearance ashore and drive the length of the beach.


Departing Double Island Point, Wide Bay 

We left at 7.15am to arrive at the bar 2 hours after low tide. One of the other boats accompanied us and the bar was perfectly tame. We entered without incident. As we still had several hours of incoming tide we decided to keep going and with perfect timing negotiated the shallows at Sheridan Flats at high tide. The anchorage at White Cliffs beckoned so we stopped there as Peter's leg was beginning to throb. Before nightfall 8 other boats had joined us in this delightfully calm, scenic place. The thing that strikes you in Aus is the birdsong. New Caledonia has almost none.

Hooray For River Heads

Our usual morning peruse of the weather forecast showed that northerly winds were on the way, so we decided to motor 10nm to River Heads to wait out two days of northerly winds under the lee of North Head in the Susan River. Others have the same idea.

Olivia 111 at anchor, Susan River at River Heads. View from the café.

This morning we launched Lily and motored down river to the boat ramp on the point. From memory it seemed to be the only place to get ashore here. What a pleasant surprise! A floating pontoon has been erected beside the boat ramp for the use of small boats. As the shore here is very rocky, tide affected and slimy we were thrilled to be able to tie up behind the pontoon and go ashore without and dramas. Congratulations whichever authority was responsible for this service. We love itThere are very few places where dingy docks are offered and it is often hard to find a suitable place to leave the dinghy and go ashore to spend some money. Dinghies are heavy and I can no longer lift ours onto the beach to tether it while we explore. At times we find her being ground across sharp rocks, or awash with surf when we come back from a sojourn ashore. (The tide often changes the demeanour of shore breaks as it ebbs and flows.)

River Heads, Great Sandy Strait. Welcome boaties.
(Other locations should take notice)

Peter and I were very impressed with River Heads altogether. The SACAS (Self Appointed Café Appreciation Society), us, decided to award the local café here 10/10. (The only other place that has gained that score from us has been the café at Rosslyn Bay Marina.) The view from the outside deck this morning was superb, the birdsong incredible and the service excellent. We were even given a small squirty bottle of water to discourage birds who became over ambitious in their scrounging of our cake. The café is located in a little shopping village a kilometre or so up the hill from the ferry terminal. While sitting there we spotted Butcher Birds, Minors, several species of Parrot, including
Rosellas, Magpies and others we can't name. On the way back to Olivia, in Lily, we were privileged to see a Sea Eagle fly overhead into the trees nearby.

A Community Garden is located not far from the shopping village and we detoured to walk around it. A sign informed us that it was run by the Progress Association. There is a hall and gazebo area that is available to hire for events, an edible vege garden that supplies vegetables to the local café, playground for kids, toilets and a forest garden to explore. All this is located on the side of a steep hill with tall natural trees sheltering the site. We were very impressed with this delightful location. Well done River Heads community. Your town is a credit to you.



Just an idea for your septic tank lid. River Heads Community Garden. Ooops! Didn't realise the feet were there.

River Heads Community Garden



 









Thursday 1 August 2019

Back to Olivia at Manly 29th July to 1st August 2019

A Three Week Break in WA

We have retired in a very beautiful place - Albany in July

This year Peter decided he would join me in the usual mid season break that I take to check out what is happening at home. I think he wanted to remind himself what Albany is like in winter. In fact the weather was amazingly fine most of the time and he was able to unhook both of the BMs from the battery chargers, and out of their winter hibernation, for some enjoyable rides. Meanwhile I pruned the roses, caught up with the friends and reles and organised for a new linen cupboard to be built for the space in the laundry where the old water heater had been removed. I was able to contact the carpenter who had built the original laundry cupboard and he had the new cupboard in place the day before we departed for Perth. It looks great and is now home to my sewing material stash and other sewing paraphernalia.

BMW R80 1982 at Frenchman's Bay, Albany

We spent eight days in Perth, firstly with Karin's family, babysitting while she worked in Geraldton supervising chiropractic prac students for five days. That was hectic, but very enjoyable. Then we moved over to Greg and his family for the weekend to catch up with them. Greg and Leisha took us for a motor around Fremantle Boat Harbour and the main shipping harbour, on Ocean Street, which was interesting. A massive container ship rumbled in behind us and we watched as the tugs guided it to its berth.

Fremantle Harbour

We also met up with Judy and John, Chris and Matthew and Viv Read while we were in Perth - all old friends and it was good to find out what they are up to.

Heading North to Townsville

Here at Manly the weather has been cool and fine, perfect for trudging around shops for stores and beer etc, for our trip north. We booked another day here as the forecast was for rain today, but that has not eventuated, until late this afternoon, so we dragged out the folding bikes and took them for a decent ride south towards Raby Bay. Most of the bike path took us through parkland and mangrove lined waterfront and was most enjoyable. This time the bikes couldn't be faulted and we are very pleased with the ground we can cover on them. This opens up an opportunity for us to explore further than we were able to previously.

Enjoying those bikes at last!

Tomorrow we are relinquishing the ties to the shore and are beginning our journey north. I am looking forward to a leisurely trip up the coast to Townsville where we will leave Olivia for the summer.


More beautiful Albany.  Town Marina and Mt Melville in the background. (Our house is on the Mt to the right up past the trees.)